Alpine Guiding

The South Ridge of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey at sunrise (most often climbed in summer!), with Mont Blanc and the Brenva Face in alpenglow. (photo: David Hewett)

Do you dream of summiting the big classic peaks of the Alps? Sleeping at elevation in a mountain hut (or tent) at the start of a big climb, far from the security and comforts of civilization? Want to climb big, sun-kissed granite faces or technical mixed routes, mere minutes from the cable car? Or do you just want to take in all the sublime views from easy or more moderate alpine routes (like the Traverse d’Entreves pictured in the foreground, above right)? You can do it all with me at Tom Grant Guiding. Check out the options below for climbing opportunities in the high alpine. For inspiration, scroll down and click on the photos below, or jump to the Alpine Climbing Gallery section. For questions, contact me directly. For gear considerations click here.

Classic Summer Alpinism

Aiguilles Entreves Traverse

From easy peaks to the hardest 4000ers in the Alps, there is something for everyone. There is no better place than the European Alps to get a lot of high quality alpine climbing done in a short period of time. I have extensive knowledge of most major climbing destinations in the Alps. I also guide full time during the summer season, so I am always up to date on current conditions. From the Matterhorn to the Eiger to Mont Blanc, and to more obscure and remote peaks, I will work hard to ensure you have the best experience possible.

Some classic (and relatively moderate) alpine routes to consider in and around CHAMONIX: Arete des Cosmiques, Midi-Plan Traverse, Peigne Normal Route, Mallory-Porter Route, Pyramid du Tacul (accessed from the Midi cable car and Cosmiques hut); Traverse of l’Aiguilles d’ Entreves, and the Tour Ronde East Ridge (via the Skyway cable car and/or Torino hut). More committed and/or more challenging routes might include: the Migot Spur, Moine South Ridge, Whymper Couloir, Rochefort Ridge, Kuffner Ridge/Mont Maudit, Petit Jorasses, Grand Jorasses Pointe Walker SW Face, Dent du Geant Southwest Ridge, Grand Capucin Swiss Route, Tour Ronde North Face and the Frendo Spur Midi North Face.

Some great objectives farther afield, roughly in order of difficulty: Gran Paradiso NW Face (ITALY); Breithorn Normal Route, Eiger Mittellegi Ridge, Zinal Rothorn, Ober Gabelhorn Normal Route, Matterhorn Hörnli Ridge, and the Weisshorn (SWITZERLAND).

For more information on these routes and others, click on the hyperlinks above, or check out this informative summary of the Chamonix area from UKC. MONT BLANC LINES has some incredible highly detailed photography highlighting established climbing routes both in Chamonix and around the world. While the site doesn’t offer a wealth of technical or practical information, it is a great visual resource. You can also check out my own mini gallery here, or just scroll down. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any questions.

• Prices start at €650 per day and vary according to group size and itinerary. Please contact me for more info.

Alpine Rock Climbing

Alpine rock climbing is one of my favorite pastimes and the immaculate granite above Chamonix is truly world class. There are grades to suit everyone, from grade 4 scrambles to overhanging grade 7 splitter cracks. Climbing perfect golden granite above a magnificent glacier is not an experienced to be missed. There is nowhere like Chamonix for the accessibility of the climbing and the for the potential to climb challenging, high quality routes each day. I’ve also guided rock climbs all around the Alps, from the famous granite spires of the Salbitschen, to Val delle Orco, Piz Badile and some lesser known hidden gems. I keep myself in good rock climbing shape and can efficiently climb through 7a on alpine trad routes; so whether you are a novice or expert climber capable of following hard pitches, I will be able to pick a route to suit your needs/skill level.

• Previous climbing experience necessary. Season typically runs from April to October.

• Max ratio 2:1, prices start at €650/day 1:1, €700/day 2:1

• Introductory cragging around Chamonix: €500/day (Group size 1-6)

• Worldwide destinations available upon request: Yosemite, Utah, Colorado, Verdon, Kalymnos (and anywhere else you can think of).

Instructional Courses and Performance Coaching

I’m passionate about passing on skills and knowledge to anyone who is motivated to learn. Whether you want to gain basic alpine skills to climb independently, or to focus on climbing performance and efficiency, I can tailor a course to your exact needs. From crevasse rescue to getting you leading on alpine terrain with close supervision, there is nothing I love more than coaching clients on an ongoing basis, and helping people push themselves to reach their potential

• Prices start at €600/day and vary according to group size and requirements. Please contact me for a quote.

Chamonix Technical Ice and Mixed Climbing

Clockwise: Mont Blanc at sunrise, Tom Grant on Les Petit Dru, Les Drus, Dent du Géant and the Grandes Jorasses bookending the Rochefort Ridge, Dent du Géant

The Mont-Blanc Massif is the ultimate playground for high quality and accessible alpine mixed routes. There is a lifetime’s worth of beautiful technical ice and mixed gullies, with something to suit every level. Available in autumn, winter, and spring seasons.

• Max ratio 2:1

• €650/day 1:1, €700/day 2:1

• Previous climbing experience necessary. Backcountry skis and some off-piste ski experience is very helpful in the winter and spring seasons for getting to routes safely and efficiently.

• Example itineraries: North Face Tour Ronde, Vent du Dragon, Chérie, Gullotte Laifaille.

Grand Courses

Rochefort Ridge Grandes Jorasses
Dent du Geant Rochefort Ridge

These are long, hard and committing routes. Only available to already strong and experienced climbers. I pride myself in maintaining a very high level of fitness and can offer guided climbs to qualified partners on any of the Great North Faces of the Alps, including the Grandes Jorasses, the Eiger, Le Petit Dru, and the Matterhorn. Other, more obscure peaks, which are equally as challenging are: Les Droites (North Face), Pilier du Diable, Aiguille Verte, or Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, SE Ridge. These are some of the toughest, most coveted alpine objectives in the world. Call and/or email to discuss.

• Prices available upon request.

• Previous climbing experience and a high level of fitness is mandatory.

• Backcountry skis and some off-piste ski experience can be very helpful in late fall and spring seasons for getting to routes safely and efficiently.

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc West Face
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Mont Blanc sits on the border between France and Italy above the mountain towns of Courmayeur, Italy and Chamonix, France, both widely considered to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering. At 4810m, it is the 2nd highest mountain on the European continent (and highest in the Alps), and is considered an essential precursor to more technical, high elevation alpine climbs. First summited in 1786 by local mountaineers Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel-Gabriel Paccard, Mont Blanc has inspired everyone from the romantic poets—Lord Byron referred to it as the "monarch of mountains"—to contemporary alpinists like Ed Viesturs, Conrad Anker, Colin Haley, and Andrzej Bargiel (Wikipedia). Looming large over the mountain town of Chamonix, its sky-piercing beauty and easy accessibility make it an enticing challenge for any aspiring (or accomplished) mountaineer. With an experienced guide, a good level of fitness, and the right mindset, it is certainly achievable for most. One to tick off your bucket list for sure. Related info: Mont Blanc Gear List

• Max ratio 2:1

• Previous climbing experience and a high level of fitness is required.

• Prices are based on a 5/6 day week (in most situations) with a preparatory climb/objective, acclimatization, and at least 2 overnights in a hut. Please contact me for a quote.

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Alpine Climbing Gallery

Alpine Climbing Gallery

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Photography Notes

1. Tour Ronde North Face 2. Rochefort Ridge 3. Dent du Geant Southwest Ridge 4. Cosmiques Arete (Detail) 5. Cosmiques Arete 6. Kuffner Ridge, Mont Maudit 7. Grand Capucin 8. Midi-Plan Traverse 9. Frendo Spur, Aiguille du Midi North Face 10. Grandes Jorasses North Face (Walker Spur, Cassin Route) 11. Pyramid du Tacul, Aiguilles du Diable 12. Mont Blanc: Trois Monts Route (upper line); Grands Mulet Route, Normal (lower line)

The Mont Blanc Massif at sunset, viewed from the northwest (photo: Unsplash)